Bird Houses
    Birdhouses are a great way to provide shelter and a place for wild birds to raise their young. Many websites detail the different plans,
    as your birdhouse should be built specifically to the type of bird you wish to attract.

    Click here for birdhouse info site 1
    Click here for birdhouse info site 2
    Click here for birdhouse info site 3


    Birdhouses do not need a perch on the outside of their houses and a perch can actually give a predator a place to balance while
    reaching in for the eggs or young birds.

    Your birdhouse should have a predator guard built onto the entrance hole to help protect eggs or young birds against predators
    (raccoons, grackles, jays, etc) that can reach into nest boxes.

    Your birdhouse should also have ventilation holes in the top of the birdhouse to provide air circulation inside the house, and to let hot
    air escape during warm weather. Additionally, there should be drainage holes in the bottom of the birdhouse.

    If you put up a birdhouse you should be sure to maintain it! Clean birdhouses well every spring to ward off disease and insect
    infestation (clean them every spring at the minimum, some people clean theirs after each brood has fledged, because a lot of cavity
    nesting birds will not nest again in a box full of old nesting).

    Unfortunately, just as we have discussed invasive plants on another page, there are also invasive birds (such as house sparrows and
    starlings) that have made survival more difficult for some of our native birds. Our Massachusetts native Eastern Bluebird, for example,
    was once threatened by house sparrows and starlings that were taking most cavity sites, and also aggressively damaging &
    destroying other species nearby nests. This has improved by human intervention & nest boxes.

    Part of having a bird house is the need to monitor your boxes for unwanted creatures such as house sparrows, starlings, rodents,
    snakes, insects. We have been lucky that so far no invasive species have attempted to use our nest boxes. We have seen some sites
    that recommend killing the invasive species, but we would not choose that path for ourselves. Unable to harm anyone, we have been
    told that if an invasive species tries to use the boxes we should just keep removing the nesting material until they give up, which they
    will eventually.

    You should NOT use any type of pressure-treated wood to build birdhouses -  the chemicals used are toxic to birds. Also avoid wood
    that has been painted or has had polyurethane applied to it. You need to make sure that the wood was not treated with creosote nor
    painted with a paint containing lead.

    If you find a baby bird that has fallen out of the nest: Pick it up and put it back. Most birds cannot smell well. It is a myth that they will not
    care for their baby.

Consider a roost box in addition to your birdhouses.

    Roost boxes allow birds to huddle and congregate together, especially useful during periods of cold weather. A roosting box will
    protect many birds from extreme winter conditions. Roost boxes are built differently than birdhouses, usually no ventilation holes are
    needed (to keep in warmth), and the entrance hole is towards the bottom of the box.
    Click Here for Roost Building Plans


Bird Feeding/Bird Feeders

    There are four classifications of bird foods: Insects, Seeds, Fruits & Berries, and Nectar.
    General Feeders: we have both tray and hanging feeders. At first we struggled with squirrels, pigeons, starlings
    (they swarm and eat everything, leaving just a huge mess and no food). We were pleased to find that the
    weighted feeders that are sold commercially do work effectively to keep larger birds and squirrels off (We now
    offer a separate squirrel feeder that offers peanuts).
    As far as the tray feeder we added beams to close it off, and our larger birds such Blue Jays & Mourning
    Doves (yes, even the occasional Starling) CAN eat from it, but the pigeons aren't able to get inside. (See left)
    We have nothing against pigeons, and find them quite beautiful. Their bad reputation they have in some areas
    of America is undeserved, and they are a cherished addition to some European cities. It is just they will eat
    every scrap of food you offer!
    Using cheap seed is not a good idea. Birds will "paw" through to get the seeds they like, and will make a mess and waste seed. You
    will actually get more for your money with seed that is better quality even if it is more expensive.

Hummingbird Feeders

    We write down the day we see the first hummingbird every year, and the past 2 years it has been May 5th and May 6th, so our feeders
    go out at the end of April, and they stay out until quite late into the fall, as you may get late migrating birds who appreciate your help.
    We make our own nectar by boiling 3.75 - 4 cups water with 1 cup sugar, boiling for 2 minutes. Obviously you must let it cool before
    serving, but also, if you keep any refrigerated, always let it warm first before giving it to your hummingbirds. The nectar (sugar water)
    should be changed about every 3-5 days, and more frequently in hot weather. You can do more harm than good if you do not keep your
    feeders maintained! Do Not use bleach to clean hummingbird feeders.
    *Tip: Our Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds love Massachusetts native Cardinal Flowers!
    *Note: We have heard two stories now about a person who put out a tray of grape jelly (Baltimore Orioles like grape jelly and oranges),
    and later found a dead hummingbird in the jelly. Be very careful with placement of buckets of open water, grape jelly, etc, and NEVER
    follow the recommendation of some who say use grease or Vaseline on poles to ward off ants - if it gets on your birds their feathers
    can become useless from the grease.

Suet Feeders

    In our yard many varieties of birds like the suet feeders, especially woodpeckers, Chickadees, and Baltimore
    Orioles. If you provide suet, don't let it sit long in hot weather. Suet can go bad quickly and harm your birds. Also
    it can become greasy and sticky, and can become difficult for the birds to get off their feathers. There is suet
    that is called heat-resistant or rendered that will last longer in warmer weather. If you have an issue with
    starlings consuming every scrap of your suet, you can make or buy a starling-proof suet feeder. (We handmade
    ours - see left) Starlings and some other species cannot cling upside down, so it restricts what species are
    able to utilize the feeder.

Other Bird Feeding Tips

    Don't cut down your perennials after flowering. Wait until spring, as the leftover seed on these perennials will feed your bird friends long
    into the winter and the plants themselves will provide cover.

    Plant native berry bearing bushes to provide winter food for birds & wildlife.

    Plant nectar rich native shrubs and plants for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

    Birds seek out salt, calcium, and grit such as dirt for digestion. We offer these in a covered tray feeder in winter as they can be hard to
    come by at that time.
    *Note: We have seen crushed eggshell recommended for different reasons in the yard, from plant fertilizer to offering it to the birds.
    Please be aware that just throwing eggshells in your yard can infect your birds with harmful Salmonella. To kill these germs, rinse the
    eggshells in cold water, and then spread them over a cookie sheet. Bake in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for 10 minutes. Cool,
    then crumble.

Water is essential.

    Wildlife of every kind needs water to survive. Offering even a small water source or birdbath is often greatly appreciated. You will draw
    even more birds if the water can be heard (a dripper or fountain). We also have a heated birdbath, and water is available year round
    and very popular!

    Tips:
    A. Most birdbaths are too deep. The center should be no more than 3 inches deep and the edges even more shallow. You can put
    rocks in yours to make it shallower if needed. Some commercial "beautiful" birdbaths have slippery bottoms and sometimes the birds
    will avoid using it. Rough bottoms or rocks are best for your birds.
    B. Water sources must be kept clean. You can do more harm than good by not keeping feeders or baths clean, as disease can affect
    all or any birds and wildlife in your yard. Also, frequent cleaning will decrease mosquitoes that may try to use the source to breed.

    *REMINDER: It is your responsibility to keep your feeders and water sources clean and to clean up old seed under your feeders.
    Several lethal diseases can be transmitted between birds at feeders and birdbaths. If you notice disease, you can report it (try calling
    your local vet if you aren't sure who to call) and probably should investigate further. We had seen a few finches with what appeared to
    be an eye disease, and through that found out about finch conjunctivitis. Please protect your birds as best you can!


Avoid the use of chemicals in your yard



Offer undisturbed sections of your yard.

    Offer quiet areas and shrub thickets, and you may find more success in attracting species you may not often see, as some birds prefer
    their privacy.


Make a dust bath.

    Dust is used as a cleaning agent for birds and animals whose feathers or fur are protected from water by a thin later of natural oil. A
    nice sunny spot in your garden is perfect to keep the soil dry and sandy. Click here for more info on how to make a dust bath.


Put out nesting material for your birds.

    Give your birds only natural fibers such as cotton. Do not offer plastic or nylon in any form, including fishing line. Cut pieces less than 4
    inches, as long strands may entangle adult birds and nestlings and cause them to be strangled. Birds also like pets hair and human
    hair, so throw them the hair stuck in your brushes and grooming tools.
    *Note: You may want to have a mud puddle nearby, as certain birds use mud to build their nests (Robins, for one).


Participate in a backyard bird count.

    The Great Backyard Bird Count is an annual four-day event that engages bird watchers of all ages in counting birds to create a real-
    time snapshot of where the birds are across the continent. Anyone can participate, from beginning bird watchers to experts. It takes as
    little as 15 minutes. It’s free, fun, and easy—and it helps the birds.
    Mass Audubon conducts different surverys, and so do other organizations. Mass Audubon recently expanded its efforts to engage
    volunteers to report on Massachusetts bird life, including Focus on Feeders, Oriole and Whip-poor-will Projects, and the Breeding Bird
    Atlas 2. They would gladly accept your participation. Click here for more info.


KEEP YOUR CATS INDOORS!!!
    We love cats, but do not foolishly disregard the damage cats can do to the native environment. They are an introduced, invasive
    species and can have a definite negative impact on our native wildlife. If you let your cats out, PLEASE take a moment to read the
    following articles and RECONSIDER.
    Click here for information about cats and their effect on wildlife.
Birds
*It is helpful to get a bird and wildlife information or identification guide for the area you live in and evaluate what species you could see in
your backyard, and look those birds or species up to see what kinds of trees, shrubs, annuals and perennials, etc or feeders to attract that
type of bird or species specifically. However, if you try and offer a wide variety of plantings, feeders, cover/shelter, and water sources, you
never know what you will see!
Click here to learn about some of the most dangerous issues facing birds today

OR

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